Coral

ECC Aphrodite Chalice

Echinophyllia sp.LobophylliidaeChalice corals

1 photos

The ECC Aphrodite Chalice is a high-contrast LPS chalice coral with a red to orange base, bright teal and blue streaks, and a yellow to gold rim. It encrusts over rockwork and does best in low lighting (75-150 PAR) with low to moderate flow, and is a slow to moderate grower.

Quick facts

Handling caution: Sweeper tentacles can deliver chemical stings; handle by the base or plug, not the flesh

Identity

Also known as: Chalice coral; Chalice LPS
Environment: Saltwater
Native to: Indo-Pacific, Red Sea, East Africa, French Polynesia
Habitat: Lagoon slopes, reef crests, and deeper reef zones, often in shaded or dimmer water than most LPS
Sourcing: Both
Conservation: Not Evaluated

Care

Care level: Moderate
Coral type: LPS
Temperament: Aggressive
Growth form: Encrusting
Adult size: 2 – 8 in (5.1 – 20 cm)
Spread: 12 in (30 cm)
Growth rate: Slow
Placement: Low, Middle

Water

Temperature: 75 – 80 °F (24 – 27 °C)
pH: 8.1 – 8.4
dKH: 8 – 9.5 dKH
Salinity: 1.025 – 1.026 SG
PAR: 75 – 150 PAR
Flow: Low-Moderate
Light: Low

Reef care

Nutrient preference: Medium
Alk/Ca uptake: Medium
Target feeding: Beneficial
Give it room: 4 in (10 cm)
Colors: Green, Red, Orange, Yellow, Blue, Purple, Teal, Multicolor

Feeding & breeding

Diet: Carnivore
Foods: Frozen, Coral food, Zooplankton, Phytoplankton, Micro-pellets
Propagation: Fragging

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Care guide

Overview

Cultivated in aquaculture from Indo-Pacific Echinophyllia stock, this chalice displays a red to orange base with teal and blue streaks fading into a yellow-gold rim. It encrusts slowly across rockwork under low PAR and benefits from isolation, since it fields sweeper tentacles after dark. Stable water chemistry matters more than precise targets.

Care

Echinophyllia does best kept low to mid in the tank where light stays subdued, since PAR much above 150 tends to bleach or wash out its fluorescent colors. Flow should be gentle and indirect, just enough to keep detritus from settling on the fleshy plate without stressing the tissue. It is one of the more territorial LPS corals in the hobby, extending sweeper tentacles at night that can sting anything within several inches, so isolated placement on a ledge or its own rock gives it room to spread without conflict. Stability of alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium matters more than hitting exact target numbers.

Placement & acclimation

Acclimate new frags gradually to light using a screen or by starting them lower in the tank and raising intensity over two to three weeks, since chalices are prone to bleaching from sudden light increases. Mount on a flat rock, ledge, or frag plug low to mid in the tank where it can encrust outward, and dip and inspect for pests before introduction. Drip acclimation of 20 to 30 minutes for the shipping water is a reasonable precaution though not strictly required for this genus.

Feeding

Although photosynthetic and capable of surviving on light alone, this coral colors up and grows faster with regular target feeding. Mysis, chopped krill, reef roids, and other small meaty or coral-specific foods work well when offered directly onto the polyps after lights out, when the feeding tentacles extend. Two to three feedings per week is typical, with flow paused briefly during feeding so food isn't blown away before it's captured.

Neighbors

Give this coral at least 4 to 6 inches of clearance from any neighboring coral, since its night-time sweeper tentacles can reach out and chemically burn adjacent tissue. It is generally compatible with reef-safe fish and invertebrates, which rarely bother it, but should not be placed near other aggressive LPS or fast-encrusting corals that could return the favor. Frag racks or an isolated rock island make good long-term homes since it will encrust outward over time and needs room to do so.

Fragging

Fragging is done by cutting through the skeleton between healthy polyp clusters with a coral saw or bone cutters, then mounting the piece on a plug until it attaches. Colonies that have encrusted onto rock can also be fragged directly off the rockwork when they begin encroaching on neighbors. Allow cut edges to heal in low flow before returning frags to normal tank conditions.

Pests & problems

Excessive light is the most common cause of trouble, leading to bleaching, tissue browning, or burned patches that show up within days of a placement that's too bright. Sudden swings in alkalinity or other parameters can trigger tissue recession, so new pieces are best dosed into stable, mature systems rather than tanks still finding their baseline. Damaged edges can develop bacterial rot if left untreated, and fragging past the dead tissue along with an iodine dip and improved flow usually halts the spread.