Nymphaea Stellata

Quick facts

Identity

Also known as

Star Lotus; Blue Star Water Lily; Dwarf Lily; Nil Manel

Synonyms

Nymphaea nouchali var. stellata

Environment

Freshwater

Native to

India, Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia

Habitat

Warm, still to slow-moving ponds, lakes, and ditches across tropical Asia

Sourcing

Captive-bred

Conservation

Not Evaluated

Care

Care level

Easy

Growth form

Bulb

Max height

4 – 16 in (10 – 41 cm)

Spread

10 in (25 cm)

Growth rate

Moderate

Placement

Midground, Background

Water

Temperature

72 – 82 °F (22 – 28 °C)

pH

6.0 – 7.5

GH

3 – 15 dGH

PAR

20 – 50 PAR

Flow

Low

Light

Medium

CO₂

Beneficial

Planting

Substrate

Nutrient-rich preferred

Feeds from

Roots

Fertilizer needs

Medium

Colors

Red, Green, Pink, Brown

Feeding & breeding

Propagation

Rhizome division, Plantlets

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Care guide

Overview

Nymphaea stellata is a bulb-forming lily grown for its arrowhead leaves, which deepen toward red or bronze as light intensity rises. It roots readily in nutrient-rich substrate and sends stalks toward the surface unless pad growth is trimmed back regularly. A hardy midground to background choice, it suits low-tech and CO2-injected setups alike.

Care

A hardy bulb plant that adapts to a wide range of lighting and water conditions, making it suitable for both beginner low-tech setups and more demanding planted tanks. It grows a rosette of arrow-shaped leaves directly from the bulb, with color intensifying toward red or bronze under stronger light. Left untrimmed it will send stalks to the surface and form floating lily pads, which shade out the submersed growth if not managed, so periodic removal of pad stalks keeps the plant compact and bushy underwater.

Planting & trimming

Rest the bulb on top of the substrate with the roots facing down and only the lower portion lightly pressed in or covered, leaving the crown and any emerging shoots exposed to avoid rot. It may float briefly after planting but will settle once waterlogged and rooted. Trim floating pad stalks at the base every one to two weeks to keep the plant in its compact submersed form rather than letting it grow into a surface plant.

Fertilizing

Most nutrient uptake happens through the roots once the bulb's initial energy reserve is used up after six to eight weeks, so root tabs pushed near the bulb are more effective than relying on water column dosing alone. A nutrient-rich substrate supports faster establishment and fuller growth. Iron deficiency or pale new leaves indicate a need for chelated iron supplementation, and liquid fertilizer can supplement root feeding in leaner substrates.

Propagation

Established plants produce small plantlets or side shoots from the bulb that can be separated once they have their own roots and replanted elsewhere. Older bulbs can also be divided if multiple growth points have formed. Flowering and seed production are rare in aquarium cultivation and not typically used for propagation.

Problems

New bulbs sometimes develop a fuzzy white or gray biofilm layer shortly after planting, which is harmless and often grazed off by shrimp or snails as long as the bulb itself stays firm. A fully buried bulb will rot within one to two weeks and take new shoots down with it, so correct planting depth is the main preventable failure point. The plant can also go dormant and drop its leaves in cooler water or after transport stress, typically regrowing within a few weeks once conditions stabilize.

Sources

1. How to Care for a Dwarf Aquarium Lily (Nymphaea stellata) – Aquarium Co-Op
2. Dwarf Aquarium Lily Care: Bulbs, Pads and Root Feeding Rules (2026)
3. Dwarf aquarium lily care: light, CO2 and placement · TankBud
4. Dwarf Water Lily (Nymphaea stellata) Care Guide & Plant Profile | Guidarium

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