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Barclaya Longifolia

Barclaya longifoliaNymphaeaceaeBulb plants

Price: $18.99 USD

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Barclaya longifolia is a rare Asian bulb plant whose long leaves turn deep maroon red under high light with CO2 and fertilizers, growing up to 12 inches. It needs moderate to high light, grows at a medium rate, and is planted with the bulb partially buried in the substrate.

Quick facts

Identity

Also known as
Orchid Lily; Red Aponogeton; Burma Conehead; Long-leaf Barclaya
Synonyms
Barclaya rubra; Stratiotes longifolius
Environment
Freshwater
Native to
Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Sumatra, India, Laos, Vietnam
Habitat
Clear, warm forest streams, rivers, and shaded creeks with slow to moderate current, over sandy or muddy substrates rich in iron and organic matter
Sourcing
Both
Conservation
Not Evaluated

Care

Care level
Moderate
Growth form
Rosette
Max height
4 – 16 in (10 – 41 cm)
Spread
16 in (41 cm)
Growth rate
Moderate
Placement
Midground, Background

Water

Temperature
75 – 84 °F (24 – 29 °C)
pH
5.5 – 7.5
GH
2 – 10 dGH
dKH
2 – 8 dKH
Flow
Low-Moderate
Light
Medium
CO₂
Beneficial

Planting

Substrate
Nutrient-rich required
Feeds from
Roots
Fertilizer needs
High
Colors
Green, Red, Brown

Feeding & breeding

Propagation
Seeds, Rhizome division

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Care guide

Overview

Long, undulating leaves take on a deep maroon-red cast under strong light and CO2, fading toward green in dimmer setups, and can reach roughly 12 inches from a partially buried rhizome. It is a root-feeding rosette plant for midground or background placement, tolerant of periodic dormancy but sensitive to repeated uprooting.

Care

Barclaya longifolia grows from a tuberous rhizome that should rest on top of the substrate or be only half buried, since fully covering it invites rot. It prefers warm, soft, slightly acidic water and settles best once planted and left undisturbed, as repeated uprooting causes leaf loss. Periodic dormancy, where the rosette dies back for several weeks before resprouting, is a normal part of its life cycle rather than a sign of poor health.

Planting & trimming

Set the bulb on top of the substrate or bury only the lower half, leaving the crown exposed so it can sprout without rotting; roots will anchor it once growth starts. Give it generous open space since mature leaves spread wide, and avoid transplanting once established as this triggers leaf drop. Confining the roots in a pot keeps the plant more compact for aquascapes with limited room.

Fertilizing

This is a heavy root feeder that benefits from root tabs pushed into the substrate near the rhizome on a regular basis. A weekly dose of liquid fertilizer containing iron supports leaf color and growth, and yellowing or holed leaves usually point to a nutrient shortfall rather than disease. Fertile, iron-rich substrate such as aquasoil or mineral-enriched gravel makes ongoing dosing more effective.

Propagation

Barclaya longifolia is most often propagated from seed, since self-pollinated flowers that reach or stay just below the surface produce seed pods that can be collected and sown in sand. Mature plants may also throw side bulbs or runner offsets that can be separated and replanted once they have developed their own roots.

Problems

The thin, wavy leaves are a favorite snail food and even a small population can leave visible holes, so snail control helps keep the foliage intact. Algae on older leaves usually signals too much light relative to nutrients or weak flow rather than a plant problem, and is best corrected by reducing light duration or intensity and boosting circulation. A short spell of leaf loss after planting or after a dormancy phase is normal and resolves once the plant settles back into stable conditions.

Sources

  1. Barclaya Longifolia Care Guide | Melbourne Tropical
  2. Orchid Lily (Barclaya longifolia) | Aquatic-Art
  3. Barclaya longifolia Aquatic Plant Care | Atlarium
  4. Barclaya longifolia | Aquasabi - Aquascaping Shop

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