Terrarium Plant
Homalomena Sub-Hasei
Homalomena sp.AraceaeAroids
Price: $79.99 USD
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Homalomena sub-hasei is a rare, compact evergreen perennial from Sumatra with green elongated leaves bearing small, thick, hair-like spikes. A low-maintenance terrestrial ornamental, it thrives in well-drained soil with partial shade, fitting comfortably in terrariums, vivariums and paludariums.
Quick facts
Identity
- Also known as
- Hasei Homalomena
- Synonyms
- Aridarum sp. (trade misapplication)
- Environment
- Terrestrial
- Native to
- Indonesia (Borneo)
- Habitat
- Shaded, fast-flowing rainforest streambanks and rocky margins in Borneo, growing as a rheophyte/epiphyte on rock and wood
- Sourcing
- Both
- Conservation
- Not Evaluated
Care
- Care level
- Moderate
- Growth form
- Rhizome
- Max height
- 2 – 5 in (5.1 – 13 cm)
- Spread
- 6 in (15 cm)
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Placement
- Midground, Background
Water
- Temperature
- 72 – 82 °F (22 – 28 °C)
Planting
- Substrate
- Not needed
- Feeds from
- Both
- Fertilizer needs
- Low
- Colors
- Green
Feeding & breeding
- Propagation
- Rhizome division
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Care guide
Overview
Elongated green leaves bearing small, hair-like spikes mark this compact Sumatran evergreen, a form distinct from the typical smooth-leafed Homalomena traded aquatically. Grown terrestrially rather than mounted underwater, it suits well-drained, partially shaded terrarium or paludarium setups. Care is undemanding once humidity and drainage are stable.
Care
This Bornean aroid grows attached to hardscape rather than buried in substrate, much like Anubias or Bucephalandra, and tolerates both submerged and emersed conditions. It prefers low to moderate light and steady water parameters, since sudden shifts in chemistry or lighting can trigger leaf melt in newly acquired specimens. Growth is slow to moderate, and the plant can sit dormant for weeks before pushing a new leaf, so patience is needed rather than frequent adjustment.
Planting & trimming
Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock using thread, super glue gel, or mesh, keeping the rhizome itself exposed rather than buried. Rinse away any rockwool or tissue-culture gel from the roots before mounting. Trim only dead or melted leaves back to the rhizome, leaving healthy foliage intact.
Fertilizing
Root tabs are not strictly necessary since the rhizome sits on hardscape rather than in substrate, but liquid fertilizer dosed into the water column supports steadier growth. Iron and micronutrient supplementation can help maintain leaf color and prevent pale new growth. CO2 is not required but noticeably speeds up development and leaf size.
Propagation
Propagate by dividing the rhizome into sections once it has produced several leaves and a healthy root mass, ensuring each division retains at least one growth point and some roots. New plantlets can also be separated when side shoots form along the rhizome. Divided pieces should be reattached to hardscape and left undisturbed to recover.
Problems
Burying the rhizome is the most common mistake and leads to rot and melt, so it must stay exposed above the substrate line when attached to wood or rock. Excess light combined with weak flow encourages algae to colonize the broad leaf surfaces, dulling their appearance over time. New imports often shed a leaf or two after transplant shock before settling in and resuming growth.
Sources
Varieties in the catalog
More Aroids
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