Snail

Horned Nerite Snails

Name: Horned Nerite Snails
Price: 23.99 USD

Clithon coronaNeritidaeNerite snails

Price: $23.99 USD

1 photos

Horned nerite snails are small freshwater snails (Clithon corona) distinguished by horn-like projections on their shells, available in a wide range of colors and patterns. They are among the best algae eaters for planted aquariums, are extremely easy to care for, and feed entirely on algae and biofilm without harming live plants.

Quick facts

Identity

Also known as: Crown Nerite Snail; Thorn Nerite Snail; Three-Color Nerite Snail
Synonyms: Nerita corona; Clithon diadema (often sold interchangeably)
Environment: Freshwater
Native to: Indonesia, Philippines, Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea, East and Southeast Asia
Habitat: Tropical rivers, streams, and estuarine tidal zones, clinging to stones and rocky substrates covered in algal film
Sourcing: Wild-caught
Conservation: Not Evaluated

Care

Care level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult size: 0.3 – 1 in (0.6 – 2.5 cm)
Lifespan: 1 – 2 yrs
Min tank: 5 gal (19 L)
Growth rate: Slow
Placement: Rock & glass

Water

Temperature: 72 – 82 °F (22 – 28 °C)
pH: 7.0 – 8.2
GH: 8 – 20 dGH
TDS: 200 – 500 ppm
dKH: 2 – 15 dKH
Flow: Low-Moderate

Behavior & compatibility

Social: Solitary
Aggression to own kind: Low
Active: Night
Invert safe: Yes
Plant safe: Yes
Shrimp safe: Yes
Clean-up role: Algae, Biofilm, Detritus, Leftover food
Population boom risk: Low

Feeding & breeding

Diet: Herbivore
Foods: Algae, Biofilm, Vegetables, Pellets
Breeding type: Broadcast spawner
Breeding difficulty: Not bred in captivity
Sexing: Sexes are separate but not visually distinguishable externally; internal examination or observed mating is needed to sex individuals
Target feeding: Beneficial

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Care guide

Overview

Horned nerite snails are small freshwater grazers named for the short spine-like projections ringing their shells, which come in mixes of yellow, brown, black, and mottled patterns. They spend most of their time scraping diatoms and biofilm from glass, rock, and driftwood, leaving live plants untouched. A tight lid is a must, as this species climbs readily and cannot breed in freshwater.

Care

This small horned nerite is one of the most reliable algae grazers for planted and nano tanks, spending most of its time scraping diatoms, green dust algae, and biofilm off glass, rock, and driftwood. It needs moderately hard, alkaline water to keep its shell intact, since soft or acidic conditions gradually etch and weaken it. A tight-fitting lid is essential, as the snail is a persistent climber and will crawl right out of an open aquarium given the chance. Copper-based medications are lethal to it, so treat tankmates in a separate quarantine tank if needed.

Feeding

Feeding relies almost entirely on naturally occurring algae and biofilm, so this snail should only go into an established tank with existing growth rather than a freshly cycled one. In low-algae setups, supplement with blanched vegetables such as zucchini or spinach, or occasional algae wafers high in spirulina. It rarely shows interest in flakes or standard pellets and can starve in an overly clean aquarium.

Tank mates

Its peaceful, non-predatory nature makes it suitable alongside small community fish, dwarf shrimp, and live plants, which it leaves untouched. Avoid pairing it with assassin snails, puffers, loaches, or other snail-eating or aggressive species. Because it does not compete with fish for food and rarely interacts with tankmates beyond grazing, it fits well into mixed cleanup crews.

Breeding

Females deposit small white egg capsules on hard surfaces like driftwood, rocks, and glass, but the larvae require brackish or marine salinity to develop, making reproduction in a standard freshwater tank impossible. This trait is actually a benefit for hobbyists, since the population stays fixed and never overruns the aquarium. Anyone hoping to breed this species would need a dedicated brackish rearing setup mimicking estuarine conditions.

Health

Shell erosion or pitting usually signals water that is too soft or acidic, and can be reversed by raising GH and KH into the recommended range. Sudden death is most often tied to copper exposure, ammonia or nitrite spikes, or introduction into a tank without enough algae to sustain it. A healthy specimen stays active, keeps its operculum tightly closed when disturbed, and shows steady shell growth without cracking.