Bucephalandra
Bucephalandra Dark Sky
Bucephalandra sp. 'Dark Sky'AraceaeBucephalandra
Price: $19.99 USD
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Bucephalandra Dark Sky is a compact, slow-growing epiphytic plant with elongated oval leaves in a deep, glossy green that contrasts well with lighter plants. It does best attached to rock or driftwood in low to medium light, with optional CO2 bringing out fuller growth and richer color.
Quick facts
Identity
- Also known as
- Buce Dark Sky
- Synonyms
- Bucephalandra 'Red Central'
- Environment
- Freshwater
- Native to
- Borneo (Indonesia, Malaysia)
- Habitat
- Grows attached to rocks along fast-flowing streams and riverbanks in Bornean rainforest, often partially submerged or in splash zones
- Sourcing
- Both
- Conservation
- Not Evaluated
Care
- Care level
- Easy
- Growth form
- Rhizome
- Max height
- 1 – 4 in (2.5 – 10 cm)
- Spread
- 4 in (10 cm)
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Placement
- Foreground, Midground
Water
- Temperature
- 70 – 80 °F (21 – 27 °C)
- pH
- 6.0 – 7.5
- PAR
- 20 – 50 PAR
- Flow
- Low-Moderate
- Light
- Low
- CO₂
- Beneficial
Planting
- Substrate
- Not needed
- Feeds from
- Water column
- Fertilizer needs
- Low
- Colors
- Green, Red, Brown
Feeding & breeding
- Propagation
- Rhizome division
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Care guide
Overview
Bucephalandra Dark Sky is a compact rhizome plant recognized by its elongated oval leaves in a deep, glossy green that stands out against paler neighbors. It grows slowly when fixed to rock or driftwood, tolerating low to medium light without issue. Optional CO2 can thicken growth and deepen leaf color over time.
Care
Bucephalandra Red Central is one of the hardiest plants available for the planted aquarium, tolerating a wide range of light levels and water chemistry as long as the rhizome stays attached to hardscape rather than buried in substrate. Growth is very slow, so it holds its shape and placement for long periods without frequent trimming. It handles both low-tech and CO2-injected setups, though supplemental CO2 and stable water chemistry bring out deeper red and bronze tones in the leaf centers. Sudden shifts in lighting or parameters are the most common trigger for leaf melt in newly acquired specimens.
Planting & trimming
Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock using cotton thread, fine fishing line, or cyanoacrylate glue, keeping the rhizome itself exposed to water rather than pressed into substrate or covered in biofilm. Once roots take hold on the hardscape within a few weeks, any ties can be removed. Trimming is rarely needed given the slow growth rate, but old or melted leaves should be snipped off individually to keep the rhizome healthy.
Fertilizing
Root tabs are of little use since the rhizome should never be buried, so nutrition comes primarily through the water column via liquid fertilizers. A broad-spectrum liquid fertilizer containing iron and trace elements supports new leaf coloration and helps prevent pale or translucent new growth. Under low-tech conditions with minimal dosing, growth simply slows further rather than showing acute deficiency symptoms.
Propagation
Propagate by cutting a healthy section of rhizome containing at least a few leaves and several growth nodes with clean scissors, then reattach the piece to a new area of hardscape or let it float until roots emerge. Each division can be tied down separately and will continue growing independently once established.
Problems
Newly planted or shipped specimens commonly show leaf melt as they adjust to new water parameters and lighting, particularly if conditions change abruptly; established plants are far more resilient. Because the rhizome and leaves grow slowly and stay in place for extended periods, algae can accumulate on older leaves in high-light or nutrient-rich tanks, so occasional manual removal or the addition of grazing shrimp helps keep foliage clean. Rot at the rhizome usually indicates it has been buried or is pressed too tightly against a surface without airflow.
Sources
More Bucephalandra
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In the community
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