Bucephalandra
Bucephalandra Apple Leaf
Bucephalandra sp. 'Apple Leaf'AraceaeBucephalandra
Price: $12.99 USD
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Bucephalandra 'Apple Leaf' is a low-tech aquarium plant with unique teardrop-shaped leaves in vivid, saturated green that pop against dark lava rock or driftwood. This small, compact, durable epiphyte attaches to hardscape and slowly forms a lush, bright green colony for the foreground or midground.
Quick facts
Identity
- Also known as
- Buce Apple Leaf; Apple Leaf Bucephalandra
- Synonyms
- Bucephalandra 'Red Central'
- Environment
- Freshwater
- Native to
- Borneo (Indonesia, Malaysia)
- Habitat
- Grows attached to rocks along fast-flowing streams and riverbanks in Bornean rainforest, often partially submerged or in splash zones
- Sourcing
- Both
- Conservation
- Not Evaluated
Care
- Care level
- Easy
- Growth form
- Rhizome
- Max height
- 1 – 4 in (2.5 – 10 cm)
- Spread
- 4 in (10 cm)
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Placement
- Foreground, Midground
Water
- Temperature
- 70 – 80 °F (21 – 27 °C)
- pH
- 6.0 – 7.5
- PAR
- 20 – 50 PAR
- Flow
- Low-Moderate
- Light
- Low
- CO₂
- Beneficial
Planting
- Substrate
- Not needed
- Feeds from
- Water column
- Fertilizer needs
- Low
- Colors
- Green, Red, Brown
Feeding & breeding
- Propagation
- Rhizome division
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Care guide
Overview
Vivid, saturated green teardrop leaves set this cultivar apart from the browner and purpler Bucephalandra forms. Growth is slow and rhizome-based, so it should be tied to wood or rock and left undisturbed rather than buried in substrate. Low light and modest fertilizer dosing are enough to sustain steady, low-maintenance coverage.
Care
Bucephalandra Red Central is one of the hardiest plants available for the planted aquarium, tolerating a wide range of light levels and water chemistry as long as the rhizome stays attached to hardscape rather than buried in substrate. Growth is very slow, so it holds its shape and placement for long periods without frequent trimming. It handles both low-tech and CO2-injected setups, though supplemental CO2 and stable water chemistry bring out deeper red and bronze tones in the leaf centers. Sudden shifts in lighting or parameters are the most common trigger for leaf melt in newly acquired specimens.
Planting & trimming
Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock using cotton thread, fine fishing line, or cyanoacrylate glue, keeping the rhizome itself exposed to water rather than pressed into substrate or covered in biofilm. Once roots take hold on the hardscape within a few weeks, any ties can be removed. Trimming is rarely needed given the slow growth rate, but old or melted leaves should be snipped off individually to keep the rhizome healthy.
Fertilizing
Root tabs are of little use since the rhizome should never be buried, so nutrition comes primarily through the water column via liquid fertilizers. A broad-spectrum liquid fertilizer containing iron and trace elements supports new leaf coloration and helps prevent pale or translucent new growth. Under low-tech conditions with minimal dosing, growth simply slows further rather than showing acute deficiency symptoms.
Propagation
Propagate by cutting a healthy section of rhizome containing at least a few leaves and several growth nodes with clean scissors, then reattach the piece to a new area of hardscape or let it float until roots emerge. Each division can be tied down separately and will continue growing independently once established.
Problems
Newly planted or shipped specimens commonly show leaf melt as they adjust to new water parameters and lighting, particularly if conditions change abruptly; established plants are far more resilient. Because the rhizome and leaves grow slowly and stay in place for extended periods, algae can accumulate on older leaves in high-light or nutrient-rich tanks, so occasional manual removal or the addition of grazing shrimp helps keep foliage clean. Rot at the rhizome usually indicates it has been buried or is pressed too tightly against a surface without airflow.
Sources
More Bucephalandra
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In the community
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