Bucephalandra
Bucephalandra Arrogant Blue
Bucephalandra sp. 'Arrogant Blue'AraceaeBucephalandra
Price: $24.99 USD
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Bucephalandra 'Arrogant Blue' is a low-tech, beginner-friendly aquarium plant with small, oval-shaped, elegantly ruffled leaves that transition from olive green to deep purplish-blue, revealing a brilliant iridescent sheen under LED lighting. This durable, shade-tolerant epiphyte attaches to hardscape and slowly forms a dense, iridescent foreground or midground colony.
Quick facts
Identity
- Also known as
- Arrogant Blue Buce
- Synonyms
- Bucephalandra 'Red Central'
- Environment
- Freshwater
- Native to
- Borneo (Indonesia, Malaysia)
- Habitat
- Grows attached to rocks along fast-flowing streams and riverbanks in Bornean rainforest, often partially submerged or in splash zones
- Sourcing
- Both
- Conservation
- Not Evaluated
Care
- Care level
- Easy
- Growth form
- Rhizome
- Max height
- 1 – 4 in (2.5 – 10 cm)
- Spread
- 4 in (10 cm)
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Placement
- Foreground, Midground
Water
- Temperature
- 70 – 80 °F (21 – 27 °C)
- pH
- 6.0 – 7.5
- PAR
- 20 – 50 PAR
- Flow
- Low-Moderate
- Light
- Low
- CO₂
- Beneficial
Planting
- Substrate
- Not needed
- Feeds from
- Water column
- Fertilizer needs
- Low
- Colors
- Green, Red, Brown
Feeding & breeding
- Propagation
- Rhizome division
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Care guide
Overview
Sourced from Bornean stream-side populations and now widely farmed for the trade, this cultivar shows the olive-to-purplish-blue leaf shift typical of its wild counterparts. Small, ruffled oval leaves attach to hardscape and grow slowly into a dense colony. Low light and modest dosing suit beginner low-tech setups.
Care
Bucephalandra Red Central is one of the hardiest plants available for the planted aquarium, tolerating a wide range of light levels and water chemistry as long as the rhizome stays attached to hardscape rather than buried in substrate. Growth is very slow, so it holds its shape and placement for long periods without frequent trimming. It handles both low-tech and CO2-injected setups, though supplemental CO2 and stable water chemistry bring out deeper red and bronze tones in the leaf centers. Sudden shifts in lighting or parameters are the most common trigger for leaf melt in newly acquired specimens.
Planting & trimming
Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock using cotton thread, fine fishing line, or cyanoacrylate glue, keeping the rhizome itself exposed to water rather than pressed into substrate or covered in biofilm. Once roots take hold on the hardscape within a few weeks, any ties can be removed. Trimming is rarely needed given the slow growth rate, but old or melted leaves should be snipped off individually to keep the rhizome healthy.
Fertilizing
Root tabs are of little use since the rhizome should never be buried, so nutrition comes primarily through the water column via liquid fertilizers. A broad-spectrum liquid fertilizer containing iron and trace elements supports new leaf coloration and helps prevent pale or translucent new growth. Under low-tech conditions with minimal dosing, growth simply slows further rather than showing acute deficiency symptoms.
Propagation
Propagate by cutting a healthy section of rhizome containing at least a few leaves and several growth nodes with clean scissors, then reattach the piece to a new area of hardscape or let it float until roots emerge. Each division can be tied down separately and will continue growing independently once established.
Problems
Newly planted or shipped specimens commonly show leaf melt as they adjust to new water parameters and lighting, particularly if conditions change abruptly; established plants are far more resilient. Because the rhizome and leaves grow slowly and stay in place for extended periods, algae can accumulate on older leaves in high-light or nutrient-rich tanks, so occasional manual removal or the addition of grazing shrimp helps keep foliage clean. Rot at the rhizome usually indicates it has been buried or is pressed too tightly against a surface without airflow.
Sources
Varieties in the catalog
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