Coral
ORA Micronesian Torch Coral
Euphyllia glabrescensEuphyllidaeTorch corals
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The ORA Micronesian Torch Coral is a branching LPS coral with long tentacles ending in bright yellow tips. This hardy, maricultured coral adapts well to aquarium life, does best under medium lighting and moderate water flow, and is a good choice for hobbyists looking for an easy-to-care-for torch.
Quick facts
Handling caution: Long sweeper tentacles deliver a potent sting; can cause skin irritation on contact with humans
Identity
- Also known as
- Torch Coral; Trumpet Coral; Pom-Pom Coral
- Synonyms
- Euphyllia glabrescens fimbriata
- Environment
- Saltwater
- Native to
- Indo-Pacific, Red Sea, Australia, Indonesia, Micronesia
- Habitat
- Reef slopes and lagoons in the Indo-Pacific, typically on sandy or rubble substrate in areas with moderate light and water movement
- Sourcing
- Both
- Conservation
- Not Evaluated
Care
- Care level
- Moderate
- Coral type
- LPS
- Temperament
- Aggressive
- Growth form
- Branching
- Adult size
- 1 – 4 in (2.5 – 10 cm)
- Spread
- 12 in (30 cm)
- Growth rate
- Moderate
- Placement
- Low, Middle
Water
- Temperature
- 75 – 80 °F (24 – 27 °C)
- pH
- 8.0 – 8.4
- dKH
- 8 – 9.5 dKH
- Salinity
- 1.024 – 1.026 SG
- PAR
- 80 – 150 PAR
- Flow
- Low-Moderate
- Light
- Medium
Reef care
- Nutrient preference
- Medium
- Alk/Ca uptake
- Medium
- Target feeding
- Beneficial
- Give it room
- 6 in (15 cm)
- Colors
- Green, Yellow, Orange, Purple, Multicolor
Feeding & breeding
- Diet
- Photosynthetic
- Foods
- Frozen, Zooplankton, Coral food, Target-fed
- Propagation
- Fragging
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Care guide
Overview
Aquariums with moderate light and gentle indirect flow suit this maricultured branching LPS well, making it a common recommendation for keepers newer to Euphyllia. Long tentacles end in bright yellow tips, and its Micronesian mariculture origin gives it a reputation for steady adaptation once acclimated. Space it apart from tankmates to account for nocturnal sweeper tentacles.
Care
Torch coral does best under moderate lighting, roughly 80 to 150 PAR, since intense light can cause bleaching or tissue retraction, especially in newly acquired colonies. Flow should be gentle and indirect, enough to make the tentacles sway without pinning them flat against the skeleton. Mount it securely on rockwork rather than loose rubble, and keep parameters stable since sudden swings in alkalinity or temperature are a common cause of decline.
Placement & acclimation
Acclimate gradually to aquarium lighting by starting in a lower-light position or using a shade screen for the first one to two weeks. Mount on a stable rock ledge or frag plug where tentacles will not rub against rock or sand, and drip acclimate over thirty to forty-five minutes before introduction. Leave generous open space around the placement site to accommodate both its sting radius and future branching growth.
Feeding
Most of its energy comes from photosynthetic zooxanthellae, but growth and coloration improve with occasional target feeding. Offer small meaty foods such as mysis, chopped clam, or enriched brine shrimp once or twice a week with the flow paused, then restore circulation after ten to fifteen minutes. Overfeeding or feeding whole shrimp can foul water quality and stress the tissue, so keep portions small.
Neighbors
Give this coral at least six to ten inches of clearance from any neighbor since its sweeper tentacles extend well beyond the base and sting aggressively, particularly at night. It can be kept in proximity to other torch heads with reasonable success, though occasional aggression between colonies still occurs. Avoid placing it near slow-growing or sessile corals that cannot be moved if contact becomes a problem.
Fragging
Colonies grow by branching, with individual heads periodically splitting into two, so mature specimens can be fragged by cutting the skeleton between heads with a coral saw or bone shears. Allow cut fragments to heal in low flow and stable conditions before mounting them separately. Handle with gloves during fragging since the sting can cause skin irritation.
Pests & problems
Brown jelly infection and flatworm infestations are the most common problems, often triggered by physical damage or poor water flow around the base. Bleaching can result from excess light or very low nutrient levels, while polyp recession is frequently linked to unstable alkalinity or strong direct current. New arrivals should be dipped and quarantined, and any affected heads should be fragged away promptly to stop infection from spreading.
Sources
Varieties in the catalog
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