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ORA Tuxedo Urchin - Assorted Color

Mespilia globulusTemnopleuridaeUrchins

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The ORA Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus) has formal-looking blue bands separating its short, multicolored spines and comes in two color varieties: the Red Tuxedo with dramatic red spines and the Blue Tuxedo with darker blue. Mostly nocturnal, it hides in rockwork and emerges at night to consume nuisance algae from hard-to-reach places; an easy, peaceful, reef-safe herbivore for tanks of 20 gallons or larger — provide plenty of live rock, feed supplemental foods only if algae runs low, note it will also consume beneficial macroalgae, and expect its charming camouflage habit of carrying shells and rubble on its spines to rearrange your aquascape.

Quick facts

Handling caution: Spines are short and blunt but can still pinch or lightly puncture skin; not seriously venomous

Identity

Also known as
Sphere Urchin; Globe Urchin; Blue Tuxedo Urchin; Pincushion Urchin
Synonyms
Temnopleurus globulus
Environment
Saltwater
Native to
Indo-Pacific, Red Sea, East Africa, Indonesia, western Pacific
Habitat
Shallow reef flats and rubble zones in the Indo-Pacific, where it grazes on algae-covered rock and coral rubble
Sourcing
Both
Conservation
Not Evaluated

Care

Care level
Easy
Temperament
Peaceful
Adult size
1 – 3 in (2.5 – 7.6 cm)
Lifespan
3 – 5 yrs
Min tank
20 gal (76 L)
Growth rate
Slow
Placement
Bottom, Rock & glass

Water

Temperature
72 – 79 °F (22 – 26 °C)
pH
8.1 – 8.4
dKH
8 – 12 dKH
Salinity
1.023 – 1.026 SG
Flow
Moderate

Behavior & compatibility

Social
Solitary
Aggression to own kind
Low
Active
Night
Reef safe
With caution
Invert safe
With caution
Shrimp safe
Yes
Clean-up role
Algae, Biofilm
Population boom risk
Low

Feeding & breeding

Diet
Herbivore
Foods
Algae, Freeze-dried, Vegetables
Breeding type
Broadcast spawner
Breeding difficulty
Not bred in captivity
Sexing
External sexual dimorphism is not visible; sexes cannot be distinguished by appearance
Target feeding
Beneficial

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Care guide

Overview

Growing to roughly 1 to 3 inches, this small globular urchin shows blue banding between short spines that vary from red to darker blue depending on the individual offered. Nocturnal by nature, it stays tucked in rockwork by day and roams rock and glass at night stripping algae film. A 20-gallon or larger reef with established live rock and copper-free, stable water suits it best.

Care

A hardy grazer suited to established reef tanks with mature rockwork offering plenty of film and turf algae. It spends daylight hours tucked into crevices and becomes active at night, wandering across rock and glass while nibbling algae. Water stability matters more than exact parameters, and slow drip acclimation is essential since sudden shifts in salinity or temperature can cause spine loss or death. Copper-based medications must never be used in a tank housing this urchin, as they are lethal to echinoderms.

Feeding

In a tank with abundant film algae and diatoms, supplemental feeding is rarely necessary, but once natural grazing runs low it should be offered dried seaweed or algae wafers placed near its usual resting spot. It will also graze on coralline algae and some macroalgae if nothing else is available, which can be undesirable in tanks where coralline growth is prized. Watch body condition and spine density over time, since a visually clean tank can still be food-poor for the animal.

Tank mates

Generally peaceful and safe with fish, corals, and most other invertebrates, though it has a habit of picking up loose shells, rubble, and even small coral frags to wear as camouflage. Any valuable or unsecured frags should be glued down firmly, since the urchin can dislodge or bury them while wandering. It does best kept singly or in pairs in larger systems, as multiple individuals compete for the same limited algae supply.

Breeding

Breeding in home aquariums has not been documented, and reproduction relies on broadcast spawning with external fertilization in open water. Larvae are planktonic and require conditions that are impractical to replicate outside of a laboratory or aquaculture facility. Nearly all specimens in the trade are wild-collected or farmed from wild broodstock rather than captive-bred.

Health

Spine loss is the clearest early warning sign of declining health, usually triggered by poor water quality, elevated nitrate, or an abrupt change in salinity or temperature during acclimation. Exposure to copper-based medications is invariably fatal and should be treated as an absolute no. A urchin that stops moving, loses its grip on surfaces, or shows a deflated test may be in serious decline and warrants immediate water testing.

Sources

  1. Tuxedo Urchin Invertebrate Care Guide | Top Shelf Aquatics
  2. Tuxedo urchin care: tank size, temperature and tankmates · TankBud
  3. Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus) – Little Shop of Coral
  4. Tuxedo Urchin: Saltwater Aquarium Invertebrates

Varieties in the catalog

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